12.2.11

Banking on Bibhu Mohapatra

Banking on Bibhu Mohapatra

News

NEWS & SCOOPS
2011 February 11

Banking on Bibhu Mohapatra

Bibhu Mohapatra at his NYC apartmentBibhu Mohapatra at his NYC apartment
Giorgio Niro
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(NEW YORK) From The Daily in print! Repeat afternous: Bee-boo Mow-ha-patra. Because chances are, you’re going to be pronouncing it a lot this year. A veteran of J.Mendel, Bibhu Mohapatra launched his eponymous collection in February 2009. The FGI’s Rising Star Award followed in 2010, along with induction into the CFDA. Now running his studio out of the CFDA’s Incubator space in Midtown, Bibhu is fully prepared to exceed the fashion world’s very high expectations. BY MARIA DENARDO
What don’t we know about Gilles? Every time we went out, we went to a specific deli: Katz’s.


Did Gilles teach you French? "C’est beau.” I think it means beautiful or something.


You designed a lot of fur. Do you have residual nightmares about PETA? No, but I’ve had some experiences. I respect the passion. One time, I was going to a Vogue event with Gilles, and as we got out of the car, we were almost attacked by activists. I just remember thinking, “Dude, what is going on?”


What do you want to be known for as a designer? My goal is to make clothes that have a life beyond one season. If you buy something from me, I’d like it to work with most of the things in your closet and for you to make many stories with it. It’s all about my product. Without my craft, I am nothing.
You’ve got a way with long gowns and embroidery. What’s most in demand from you these days?
The most expensive pieces, the eveningwear, sell best for me. If I offer my client something like a very sporty daywear separate, it doesn’t really resonate at this point.

For Fall 2011, your theme is “opposites, contrast, and ritual.” Who’s your opposite in the industry?
Bob Mackie.
What’s the opposite of fashion designer?
An accountant. Oh, my God. I’m going to be killed for that. Maybe we should say a statistician?
Where do you produce your collection?
Everything is made in New York. I want to support my industry people here who are trying really hard to stay open.

Is your name often mispronounced?
Oh, boy. Especially by telemarketers. They usually get my first name, but my last… I can see them stumbling down the hill with it. You know what’s so funny? The people from the call centers are Indian, and so is my name. But every time, they mess it up. And I call them out on it. I’m like, “What is your name?” And he says something like “Sanja.” Really?

Is there any friendly competition among the designers at the CFDA Incubator?
Not really. But the CFDA has a Facebook page, and every time something gets published, they very nicely put it up. Sometimes, you feel like you should aspire to that.

Do you guys all hang out?
Yeah, my good friends here are Waris [Ahluwalia] and Prabal [Gurung]. We make fun of each other. I always tease Waris that he’s not Indian.

So where’s the best place to take a first date?
A lobster dinner at El Quixote in the Chelsea Hotel. It’s called the “daily double”—$29 for two lobsters and lots of vegetables.

You went to FIT, but you first studied at Utah State. Why? I needed to come to America to do an undergraduate degree and get funding. I was practical. I had a cousin in Utah who was getting her Ph.D. in economics, and she told me to come here. I got a scholarship and got my foot in.

What were your weekends like?
We went hiking a lot—road trips in the canyon. We’d have a picnic. I can cook a crazy shrimp curry. I remember the very first time I saw snow there.
I was living in this basement apartment with little tiny windows. Kind of like No Country for Old Men. I remember this white blanket. I sat outside freezing, trying to touch the snow and rub it all over my face. I went skiing a few times. I went to a couple of frat parties with all these boys, but I didn’t drink. I never had alcohol until I came to America. I was trying to make sense of it. The whole not-drinking thing changed pretty quickly. I started with red wine, but one glass would knock me out.
Did you have a job while you were in school?
Yes. I had to look for a job with only 20 hours. So there was a job board on campus, and they had a position at the University Inn. I told my cousin, “I don’t know, but it says something like ‘janitor!’ ” I had no idea what a janitor was. I thought it was like an office position, like an accountant. I met the manager, who introduced me to Jay. Jay appears, a very nice man in his 70s with a big bunch of keys hanging from his overalls. I was a little discouraged. It was minimum wage, $4.25 an hour. I had to clean all the offices, vacuum, and clean eight toilets. For the first two weeks, I would walk into one of the rooms and cry. But it’s okay. Someone had to do it, and I’m not above it. I did it for nine months. I could clean toilets like nobody’s business.

Did you know any polygamists?

I saw some people who might be. I would see the same person with different families at grocery stores. I had some Mormon friends. Sometimes I would feel pressure to convert, but I was born Hindu, and I have my own way of thinking about religion. I had a few awkward moments, but overall it was a great time. Maybe I was just simpler then.

So what don’t we know about you?

I’m not moody, but I am a Gemini. I spend time in cemeteries; I love reading the inscriptions on the gravestones. I have a very dark side. That’s why I’m having such a good time making this collection.

10.2.11

Michael Pawlyn: Using nature's genius in architecture -TED

I love TED, and Michael Pawlyn is Brillant.



How can architects build a new world of sustainable beauty? By learning from nature. At TEDSalon in London, Michael Pawlyn describes three habits of nature that could transform architecture and society: radical resource efficiency, closed loops, and drawing energy from the sun.

About Michael Pawlyn

Michael Pawlyn takes cues from nature to make new, sustainable architectural environments. Full bio and more links

Ecco Domani Award Il premio porta in passerella a New York i giovani designer


La settimana della moda di New York che si apre oggi vedrà sfilare, tra i nomi delle grandi Maison, i giovani selezionati dal progetto Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award (EDFF), concorso di valorizzazione dei giovani creativi sponsorizzato dai vini Ecco Domani
Ecco Domani Award


Bibhu Mohapatra (designer di origine indiana che gioca con tessuti suntuosi) Lake & Stars (duo composto da Maayan Zilberman and Nikki Dekker che trasforma la lingerie in una espressione di moda),M. Patmos (brand dietro cui si cela Marcia Patmos, appassionata di design e ispirata dal lavoro della nonna), e Mandy Coon (ex modella, amante delle linee pulite e geometriche) per la sezione abbigliamento donna, Native Son (Kyle Fitzgibbons, una carriera iniziata nel business) per l'abbigliamento uomo, Pamela Love (laureata in regia e con esperienza come stylist) per gli accessori e Study NY (le cui collezioni sono ispirate ai materiali open source) per il design sostenibile hanno vinto $25,000 ciascuno per organizzare le loro presentazioni durante la settimana della moda statunitense in cui sfileranno le collezioni Autunno/Inverno 2011/12.

Ecco Domani in questi 10 anni dalla fondazione del premio ha distribuito a giovani di talento, tra i quali Alexander WangPrabal GurungRodarteDoo Ri, e Joseph Altuzarra, oltre un milione di dollari.
Pubblicato:
10 febbraio 2011

9.2.11

All Eyes on Four Not-So-New Designers- New York Times


NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

All Eyes on Four Not-So-New Designers

From left: Chang W. Lee/The New York Times; Stephen Lovekin/Getty Images; Soul Brother/FilmMagic; Hiroko Masuike for The New York Times.





From left: Marcia Patmos, of Lutz & Patmos; Olivier Theyskens; Daisuke Obana; and Bibhu Mohaptra.



IT’S fitting that the movie that fashion people are mad for is “Black Swan.” It’s about a bulimic girl obsessed with perfection, poise and control who is really — really! — dying for her breakout moment atLincoln Center so the world can see how talented she is. Of course, the film is set next door at a fictional ballet company, and the girl is trying to break out of the corps, not the fashion pack. But every year, as the fashion flock gets larger, it’s harder to spot the cob or pen — boy swan or girl swan, of course — that could rise above the rest, on track to a spotlight in Vogue, a C.F.D.A. nomination and an order from Bergdorf Goodman.
What makes this season special, though, is that, unlike past years when fashion’s searchlights were focused on a crop of 23-year-olds just out Parsons (and 12-year-olds were declaring themselves designers), four of the most anticipated collections are by designers who each have more than a decade of experience and come to their new lines with a track record of making great, desirable clothes.
BIBHU MOHAPATRA
It sounds charmingly anachronistic in 2011 to hear why Bibhu Mohapatra, 37, already has a following among actresses and socialites — that is, because of his flair for cocktail dresses and evening gowns. It seems that today’s updates of ’30s gals like Claudette Colbert, Carole Lombard and the screwball heiresses they played are happy to stimulate the economy if there’s a flattering frock in it for them. Then again, after winning an evening-wear prize while at the Fashion Institute of Technology, then spending a decade designing for Halston and J. Mendel, Mr. Mohapatra does know what he’s doing. His clothes, fun and feminine without being fussy or retro, walk a line between youthful spirit and ladylike poise. Moreover, his long-practiced flair with embroidery, beading and lace, a skill that eludes most young designers, gives his clothes a specialness that endears them to customers. The question going forward: Can he make up for a perceived weakness in day clothes, or should he even bother? His presentation is on Feb. 15.


5.2.11

Bloomberg is All Business about Fashion, Announcing "Entrepreneurial Boot Camp" for Fashion Designers


Thread NY
DISPATCHES FROM THE GARMENT DISTRICTMAYOR BLOOMBERG

Bloomberg is All Business about Fashion, Announcing "Entrepreneurial Boot Camp" for Designers

Bloomberg is All Business about Fashion, Announcing "Entrepreneurial Boot Camp" for Designers
Jenni Avins/Thread NY
There’s no shortage of starry-eyed designers in New York, but it seems if Mayor Bloomberg has anything to say about it, the Garment Districtwill start seeing more hard-nosed business types soon.

The NYC Economic Development Corporation (who helped bring us the CFDA Fashion Incubatorannounced six new programs that resulted from FashionNYC2020, their yearlong analysis of the industry. Five of those initiatives emphasize business acumen above all – no surprise since the advisory board included industry titans like Andrew Rosen and Diane von Furstenberg. With Parsons bringing some 800 aspiring designers to New York each year, we agree it’s wise to nurture some brains to run the business, which is what EDC-funded internships and fellowships aim to do.

Bloomberg also announced an “entrepreneurial boot camp” for “emerging fashion designers, many of whom have a strong creative vision, but lack the requisite business skills.” (Doesn’t sound like anyone we know.) And if those creative types can get their designs to the production stage, the newNYC Fashion Fund will even float them money for manufacturing.
It seems like Bloomberg's vision for better-rounded designers is already taking shape. When we stopped by Bibhu Mohapatra's studio at theCFDA Fashion Incubator a few months ago, he took a break from sketching to talk sales.
"This is business," the designer said, surrounded by plush furs and ethereal gowns. "There is no meaning if there is not commerce attached to this craft, this art."
BY JENNI AVINS // THURSDAY, JAN 20, 2011 AT 07:10 EST

Robert Verdi on Ecco Domani Judges: "They're the Gatekeepers of Fashion"


Thread NY
AWARDSALL THE PRETTY PEOPLE

Robert Verdi on Ecco Domani Judges: "They're the Gatekeepers of Fashion"

Robert Verdi on Ecco Domani Judges: "They're the Gatekeepers of Fashion"
Thread NY
At last night's anniversary party for the Ecco Domani awards, which celebrate emerging fashion talents, Prabal Gurung celebrated 2011 winner Bibhu Mohapatra's love of BollywoodMandy Coon dished on her fashion week essentials, and host Robert Verdi admitted he was mostly eyeing Mohapatra's dresses and the Lake & Stars lingerie.
"This is the most prestigious award you want to win in fashion," Verdi told us. "In 10 years, they've really picked the most important, prolific, emerging American fashion designers. The group that's judging them ... they're the great gatekeepers of fashion."
As for whom among the winners Verdi had his eyes on, the style expert professed his love for The Lake & Stars as well as Bibhu Mohapatra, mostly because "it's award season" (Mohapatra's gowns on display were quite stunning).
Mohapatra seemed to be one of the biggest stars of the night, enjoying one of the best introductions as well, delivered by his CFDA Incubator neighbor, Prabal Gurung. "Not only do I think he is talented and worthy of this design, I do also think he's one of the nicest persons you can find in this industry ... And on a very, very presonal note, his love and my love for Bollywood has cemented our friendship."
Later, we caught up with fellow award-winner Mandy Coon, who admitted that the award had allowed her to step up to a bigger platform in moving her show to Lincoln Center. As the designer preps her "dark and chic" fall collection for the runway, the biggest essential keeping her going is apparently vegan cupcakes. "Babycakes!" she said excitedly.
BY LAUREL PINSON // FRIDAY, FEB 4, 2011 AT 04:00 EST

Hillary Swank in Bibhu Mohapatra

Hillary Swank in Bibhu Mohapatra
on way to Late show in New York

Me

Me
in the studio

Bibhu Mohapatra fall 2009 Presentation