D2D: Direct to Designer, Bibhu Mohapatra

Interview with Bibhu Mohapatra: Fashion’s newest star-Vogue India

VOGUE INDIA

JULY 21, 2010

Interview with Bibhu Mohapatra: Fashion’s newest fare

If there are two things Bibhu exudes, its humility and candor. Add unassuming to the mixture and it just isn’t your typical designer behavior. Bibhu Mohapatra, Orissa-born designer, FIT graduate, Assistant Designer at Halston, Design Director for nine years at J. Mendel who finally launched his own label in 2009 Fall – is all about putting personality over fashion and individualistic style over image-enhancing brand mania. From designing for the stars like Cate Blanchett, Salma Hayek and Sienna Miller to being selected as part of the CDFA Fashion Incubator program, to receiving the Young Innovator Award from the National Arts Club, Bibhu is all set to take his fashion stakes a notch higher this year. His Fall 2010 collection is another feather in his cap with In conversation with Vogue India on his visit to the office, Bibhu, in all modesty, tells us why brand India is making waves in the west and why his Fall 2010 collection is all about precision.  

 Have you met any Indian designers? Had a chance to look at the work coming out of India?

Personally I haven't met anybody, but I've seen a lot of work come out of India in the recent years. I was at Bombay Electric yesterday and I saw some great work. It's beautiful; I also make it a point to read about every new Indian designer even when I’m in New York. News travels faster, and I think the best work that has been recognized is definitely the designs of Sabyasachi and Rajesh Pratap Singh. I love nachiket actually, Very promising young designer.

The news is clear, India is on the radar.  People are very well aware of Indian designers in the west; they want to experience all that’s new out there. There's a lot of amazing talent and many new things to say.Odd choice that you have decided to launch your label in recession?

It's a little bit by design, a little bit by luck. In the last year, 500,000 new businesses have started in NYC area alone. Recession is known for entrepreneurship. At this time people have lost their jobs, or have been given the pink slip and they are more prone to take on challenges because they have nothing to lose. For me, any business or anything new that you start, you need some amount of groundwork to bring it up. I would rather do my incubation and my ground work now while the market is still tender and by the time the market turns around, I would have already paid my dues.Smart strategy, did it work?

It worked. All my designer friends were wondering how it will be. I was the design director for J.Mendel for 9 years and it was a great job, but I really needed the challenge. So I took some time off and then came back and started the brand. I have a Masters in Economics, I needed to begin somewhere.How difficult is it to stand out among new talent, among much variety out there in NYC? What was tough about working on your own label?

It is extremely tough to stand out and say something important. But it isn't as much difficult if you have something new and exciting to say, through your work. What's tough is the commercial aspect of it. The nitty gritties, the real business side of it- that’s tough. I am very hands-on that way. I take out the garbage at the end of the day; sweep the floors when I come in the morning. Every small thing is a part of the whole process and I love it. Finances, running the business - to me that is the biggest challenge of all.There must be a lot of pressure as well?

You know every time a collection is out; it’s critically acclaimed or trashed out. Whatever it is, it gets tougher even if you're doing well because you have already set the bar higher. Then, the only choice for you is to perform better. If it's not that, then there is no challenge. I'm happy to take on bigger challenges. I am true to my craft. I believe in small things: getting my fabric, draping it, creating the shape, making paper dolls. I'm super hands on. I do have an understanding in the technicalities. When i was a kid, I would watch my dad put his motorbike apart and try to put it all together. People think I'm a control freak. Any Indian influences you have brought to your design?

India, it’s my heritage, I can never have enough of Indian influences in my design. But sometimes I have to tone it down because I am trained in the west and my clients are from the west. In many subtle ways though, be it the fit, the drape or the colour, the jali work on modern materials- all of it, it’s very Indian. The juxtaposition of opposites is my design philosophy. Taking something old world to make something modern, or taking something very masculine to make it very feminine.What’s the inspiration for your Fall 2010 collection?

I was always fascinated by the fascist era in Europe, the 30s when Hollywood was at its peak, when aviation was big. I’ve loved the movie, Conformista and it gave me the canvas. I remember a scene when they would make clothes with metal straps for people and they would measure them to the precise inches, because human bodies are not 100 % symmetrical. I was fascinated by the whole movement. Metal straps are tough to sew; needles have to be changed all the time. My attempt was not to romanticize the era; it’s to show you how people lived every day during a certain time.How do you describe a woman who wears your label? 

I think it would be someone who has a real passion for life, someone who loves life. Definitely not someone who is passionate about fashion, but someone who is passionate about art, literature or even raising kids, or having a  family. Someone who is dynamic, who does things for herself and for her life. I don’t want to categorise them into any age category, they can be anyone from 20s to their 60s. I find women fascinating, in every woman I met, I experience something new in them.Icon who fit your bill?

Definitely Cate Blanchett. I dressed her once and I've seen her and I think she is her own self even if she’s wearing a design. She has that aura about her, it’s really inspiring. My outfits lend her a crutch to be herself.Isn't it sometimes the other way around, designers wanting to dress a certain woman and make her become a part of their tribe, their design? 

That’s not true, then, I might as well, make a mannequin wear my dress. The clothes come to life, and it should be what they do to the clothes, not the other way around. I think in India, Kareena Kapoor wears beautiful clothes, but it’s not about the dress, it’s what she is doing to that dress. It is then that fashion comes alive. Have you had a chance to understand Bollywood? Have you dressed up any Bollywood celebrities?

Actually in 2008, I was dragged by a friend to the sets of Teen Patti and I played a small cameo in the movie, with Big B. I was excited to be on the set, I loved playing an extra. I love Bollywood, I have great respect for the craft. It’s all about team work and that’s common between Bollywood and me. Katrina Kaif is a classic beauty, she’s very strong. I also Dimple Kapadia, my all time favourite. I would love to dress up Aishwarya, Kajol and Deepika. I have the biggest film library at home, Bollywood is like dal-chawal.What does fashion mean to you?

To me it’s a marriage between art and commerce. It starts from art and then depending on how far you take it, it could be anything. Fashion has to go beyond the gallery. For me fashion has to go beyond art into a common person's life. If it cannot do that, then its just art. I want it to touch someone’s life every day.Give us five style essentials every woman must have?

A classic LBD, the perfect high heels, the most amazing perfume, an evening clutch and curiosity about new things in life.

Post card from India by Bibhu

Bibhu Mohapatra's Indian Vacation

by VANESSA LAWRENCE

Posted THURSDAY JULY 8, 2010

From WWD.COM

Bibhu Mohapatra

Photo By Courtesy Photo

Bibhu Mohapatra

Photo By: Courtesy Photo

Bibhu Mohapatra's signature.

Photo By: Courtesy Photo

After a 16-hour flight, I arrived after midnight in steamy hot Bombay, a city that is always awake. Once at the Taj Lands End hotel, I slept like a baby on those fine Rajasthani cotton sheets and woke up to a stunning view of the Arabian sea, waves crashing on the rocks along the famous Bandstand area across from the hotel. (The Bandstand is where some of my favorite Bollywood movie stars live, and so every time I left the hotel, I found myself all starry-eyed, hoping for a glimpse of the greatest, most glamorous actress, Rekha.)

My first day started with a hearty breakfast of a masala egg-white omelet, fresh fruit and coffee. I had a meeting with my friend Max at the hotel’s coffee shop and then a typical vegetarian Gujarati lunch with my friend Siddharth at his beautiful and serene studio on Juhu Tara Road. I spent the rest of the afternoon hunting for fabrics, both new and antique, from Kalaniketan to Saroj Fabrics to Mughal Moments and the merchants depot. I found things that were really exciting and unique in colors that I have never seen before. That evening I went to Aurus, Bombay’s most hip and chic restaurant with a menu out of this world. I called it an early night, as I had a flight the next morning to Orissa, where I was going to see my family. I could hardly wait.  

I arrived just in time for lunch at home, with warm mutton Biryani and onion raita waiting for me. Good Biryani is one of my most favorite Mughal dishes. I spent the afternoon with Dad catching up on the last 18 months and visited some of my favorite places, including my beloved tailor, Ability, whose family has been in tailoring for generations since the British Raj. I gave them a reorder of white cotton shirts and some slacks, which they had to turn around in three days and they did. Evenings I was mostly with my two young nieces, Esha and Roma (14 and eight), out shopping and munching on delicious street food like pani puri.

During my last two days in Orissa, between the newly arrived monsoon showers, I went shopping for local arts and crafts. I found some amazing silver filigree objects. (Silver filigree and the traditional ikat fabrics are two of the crafts that Orissa is famous for.) Then it was back to Bombay for a few days and some spare time for inspiring visits to several modern Indian galleries in Colaba, where I saw some beautiful Souzas, Hussains, Khers, all art heroes in India. My trip ended with a nice dinner with friends. It was hard to say goodbye to India, but I know I will be back very soon.

Mahesh Lunch Home
8-B Cawasji Patel Street, Fort
Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
022-2287-0983
 
Aurus Juhu
12/A Gr Flr Nichani Kutir, Juhu Tara Road
Juhu, Mumbai, India
 
Saroj Fabrics
14th Road, Khar West
Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
022-2600-0544
 
FabIndia
Mahran, Plot #16, Juhu Vile Development Scheme
Vile Parle (W), Mumbai, India
022-2620-6339

Editor’s note: Designer Bibhu Mohapatra returned recently from a vacation in India.

WWDCopyright ©2010 Fairchild Fashion Group. All rights reserved.

Who? Bibhu? an Interview in The telegraph, Calcutta

Front Page > Entertainment > Story THE TELEGRAPH, Kolcutta by  Shradha Agarwal

Who? BIBHU! Who is Bibhu Mohapatra? Well, the rourkela-born, Manhattan-based designer is America’s poster boy of fashion. part of the New Guard, as they say. His designs are contemporary with a strong bent of couture. He sells in NY but his soul belongs to eastern India. A t2 chat Facebook may not be the boss’s best friend but some good things do come out of it. For instance, an interview with Orissa-born, Manhattan-based fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra. In less than 24 hours, New York fashion’s hottest Indian face had accepted t2’s friend request and allotted time for an interview! The 37-year-old Mohapatra is one of those rare, fuss-free members of the fashion frat. On the phone, oceans apart, he sounds like a typical desi boy, talking passionately about mum’s fashion influences, with an accent that sounds more Latino than American. And when we tell him that it’s great to be chatting with him, he bowls us over with the following words: “It is truly an honour to be a part of The Telegraph, a paper I grew up reading daily. The fact that I am on the phone with you means a lot.” Mohapatra’s label is barely three seasons old at New York Fashion Week. He made his debut with a fall 2009 collection but having been design director at Halston, Mohapatra has been there, dressed her, where the ‘her’ stands for the likes of Cate Blanchett and Sienna Miller. The designer hasn’t presented an India-inspired collection yet, though he says that the influence is everywhere. He has, however, touched upon Japanese armaments, Italian films and X-rays! A t2 conversation with Bibhu on everything from home to haute couture… How often do you visit your family in India? Earlier I used to come back home twice a year but this June I came after a year and half. Ever since I launched my label I haven’t been able to make it so often but I am not going to do that anymore. Coming back home is amazing. The energy is different. It makes me feel alive the minute my plane lands. Do you like Calcutta? Calcutta is the biggest city nearest to Rourkela. It is one of my favourite cities in the world. There are few cities that have such strong cultures. People in Calcutta have a strong passion for their culture. They believe in their culture, fight for their culture and live for their culture. They might also complain about the excessive heat and rain but one thing that binds them all together is their culture. You always knew that design was your destiny? Oh yes! I remember an old Singer sewing machine at home that belonged to my grandmother. It had a pedal. My mom taught me how to use it when I was 12 years old. I used to find it so intriguing, how a flat piece of material could be made into an object that had so many uses. My sister was very supportive, the atrocities she had to bear when I used to wake her up in the middle of the night to try on clothes! Since I had no formal training, I remember being on the floor, cutting, sewing…. It helped keep my curiosity alive and I knew that this was the best way to express my creativity. Some express through words, some on canvas and some write poetry, this is it for me. I came abroad to study economics after I got a scholarship. In India there weren’t many places to study fashion so I knew I had to leave the country. I finished my masters and then joined FIT, New York. Your parents always supported your decision? Yes. Thanks to my mom for teaching me, supporting me and encouraging me. My engineer dad is where my technical acumen comes from. I remember him taking me to the factories to see how what works. Often he used to open up his motorbike to fix things and I saw how the wheels worked. His car used to be open for dissection very regularly. All this taught me and inspired me to look beyond what I could see on the skin. In Paris, I looked at the Pompidou Center for hours. It fascinated me to see the structure inside out! That comes from my dad. Name: Bibhu Mohapatra DoB: 7.6.1973 Place of birth: Rourkela, Orissa, India Education: Patha Vidyalaya School and Municipal College in Rourkela, Masters in Economics at Utah State University and then Fashion Institute of Technology, New York CV highlights: Internship at Halston, design director of J. Mendel, now the Bibhu Mohapatra label Claim to fame: Recently acquired Council of Fashion Designers of America membership My mom has given me my sense of style. She has taught me how individual style is so beautiful, what you appreciate on someone else might not be good for you. For her, style is all about being comfortable and she has an innate sense of sophisticated style. She might like a choker on someone else but she knows her own style is more bangles — red, green, gold ones… The day I was boarding that first flight from Calcutta to New York 13-14 years ago, my father told me in my hotel room to never forget the people who have contributed to making me the person I am. He said the day you forget your first steps, that is the end of it. My mother was not happy about him lecturing me, but my dad felt it was only right! What was your first feeling on setting foot in New York? I was totally fascinated. The energy, the people, the creative minds, it was really inspiring, quite like Calcutta actually. What is your favourite art form from Orissa? I love the ikkat and the simple Sambalpuri saris. I also love the silver filigree work. Whenever I come back home, I am always on the hunt for some beautiful things. The craftsmanship is so unbelievable, it is all ever so inspiring. Are we going to see an India-inspired collection soon then? Yes, soon. I am researching and reading. I click many photographs. Last time, when I was on an overnight train from Bhubaneswar to Rourkela, I took some beautiful images from the window — tribal villagers, so elegant and so beautiful, all dressed in saturated colours with their nose-rings and tattooed foreheads. There is so much in India. It already contributes subtly in all of my collections. What are your favourite modern shapes? I like architectural shapes. You can’t put any shape on any body, except on the runway. In reality, it has to look and feel flattering. Your clothes strike a smooth balance of intelligence and glamour… That goes back to the woman I am designing for. She has to have passion, and not necessarily for fashion. She could cook, garden or be a mother doing it all. She has to take time to know herself and understand herself. A woman should know a super sexy dress doesn’t need $500 hair. The make-up should also be kept simple to let the true self come out. The real balance has to be struck between the dress and the persona of the person wearing the dress. If the dress takes over the persona or the persona takes over the dress, it is a failure. You began with Halston and then were design director of J. Mendel. What do you miss most about being in a large design house? I miss the logistics, the resources, the tools and the team. For instance, in a short span of time I could do much more with the artisans. In the same day, I could be working on a gown with someone and a coat with someone else. Some day, I will also build a team but right now, in the current scenario, the realities are different. What don’t you miss? I don’t miss that fact that it is not 100 per cent my creativity. Though I was design director, I was still designing for someone else’s customer, not my own. Now I do and that is a challenge. So yes, I don’t miss that lack of challenge. When did you realise that you had made it big? (Long pause) I don’t think I am there yet. If you look at the trade off, I am here thousands of miles away with the help of friends, family and well-wishers to pursue first my studies and now my career and it is during instances such as this phone conversation that I feel like I am on the right track. But yes, I am lucky to have had many breaks and many opportunities, especially in the past two years. The biggest honour is to have been recently inducted in the Council of Fashion Designers of America. But does that mean I have made it? No. There is so much more to achieve. And there is so much more to give back. I like the idea of having a challenge ahead of me. When you look at the world of art, fashion, literature, so much great work is being done. It makes me feel that I have only scratched the surface. Hopefully, I will make it well inside! What is the quality that sets you apart? I would think it is a combination of a few things. Definitely determination and drive, luck of meeting the right people and of course, some talent has to be there! What did you do right to get so far? I can’t answer that! I never thought of it like that…. There has to be something you can think of… Hmm. Maybe I wasn’t afraid to work hard, non-stop. I started working in Halston while I was studying, I worked nights after spending the day at school, sitting like a sponge and absorbing it all. It’s about making the right choices. Is it easier for an Indian designer to make a mark internationally if they begin in the West? I think you can make a mark from anywhere, as long as you are ready. You have to know what you want to say. India is an amazing platform today. Bodies like IMG and Lakme are doing so much for the industry, they are supporting young designers. It’s the same thing in the West but it’s a whole different market. I was a student here, then I worked here, so it made sense for me to launch my label here. Many established designers from India come here to show and they have made a mark. Sabyasachi Mukherjee for example. He has something new to say and his clothes make sense. So he is successful. I also like Rajesh Pratap Singh and Nachiket Barve. Do you think the Indian fashion industry is on the right track? Can you see yourself as a part of it? It’s completely on track. There is so much creativity and so much talent. I would love to participate there. I had a couple of interesting meetings in India. But the industry has to be more in sync with the West. End-work has to reach the end-customer; it should not just finish with the magazine pages. How are you so grounded? I hope to drop dead before the day comes that I have an attitude. Any non-fashion indulgences? I am a movie buff. I had a fling with Bollywood a year-and-a-half ago. I was in a party scene of Teen Patti, wedged between Ajay Devgn and Amitabh Bachchan, with lines to say. Needless to say, I messed up. I felt like I was standing naked on Chowringhee! It was a fraction-of-a-second scene but I spent a whole day on the set. I have great respect for the craft. Who would you rather dress — Michelle Obama or Lady Gaga:Michelle Obama Paper or Photoshop:It’s all pencil and paper. I am also a hands-on drape guy Fall-winter or spring-summer:Fall-winter. It’s a bigger canvas, a lot more can be done Black or red:Red. It implies lots of things. It’s the colour I grew up with Favourite Halston dress from SATC 2:The pleated orange dress Carrie wears when she is upset iPhone or BlackBerry:iPhone Hollywood or Bollywood:Bollywood Favourite Bollywood actors: Smita Patil, Shabana Azmi, Rekha, Dimple, Suchitra Sen and Aamir Khan Ultimate style icon:US Vogue contributing editor Lauren Santo Domingo, Cate Blanchett and Julia Roberts Favourite red carpet walkers:Cate Blanchett. She lights up any red carpet. Also Charlize Theron and Marion Cotillard   Shradha Agarwal What is your message for Bibhu Mohapatra? Tell t2@abpmail.com

The Innovator Award goes to Bibhu

Bibhu Mohapatra Takes Home 

National Arts Club Young Innovator Award 

By Cator Sparks
June 1, 2010 6:15 pm

 The New York-based designer earns a coveted award while bringing old school fashion folk out with him. We love a fashion party as much as the next guy but most of the time these New York kids are focused more on Twittering than actually enjoying the party or meeting people. As I have learned from my many nights at The National Arts Club for various occasions, never doth a Twitter pass through these hallowed halls. Why? Because there is zero phone reception in the old Tildon Mansion! Quel relief. Last week we were back at the venerable old club on Gramercy Park to celebrate Bibhu Mohapatra.

When we last caught up with Bibhu we chatted him up mid-studio workday, and we found the man as pleasantly glamorous as the clothes. So when we heard word that he was to be honored by the National Art Club's Fashion Committee as a Young Innovator, we were all on board. A gorgeous Bibhu creation. The place was packed with members, fashion folks (Hi Ruth Finley!) and of course friends of the designer. There was also a slideshow of Bibhu’s collections and mannequins wearing a couple of his stunning evening pieces. Later in the night speeches were made and Bibhu was presented with his award to much fanfare. We ran into the handsome Peter Arnold, President of Cynthia Rowley who was pleased as punch to be there. “I’m a long time friend of Bibhu and his boyfriend Bobby. Bibhu has such great talent and I am excited to see him getting so much exposure as of late.” Mohapatra was equally as thrilled, “Between my new atelier at the CFDA Incubator and this award, it’s been quite an encouraging year.” So how did the award come about? “Well I got a call from Fashion Committee member Max Wilson, and he said they had been following my work for quite some time and would like to give me the Young Innovator award. It came as a total surprise,” Bibhu explained. We finally grabbed Chrishaunda Lee, Chairman of the Committee to ask her about the evening. “I’m so glad to see such a diverse group of people in attendance. We bring all facets of life to these events from educators to collectors and designers. This is old school viral marketing!

Watch Bibhu Jump! Vogue and the New Guard of fashion designers at photo shoot

CFDA- Bibhu Mohapatra -Glamour.com

www.glamour.com

The Garment District Is Abuzz With Young Talent: Inside The CFDA Fashion Incubator

The New York fashion world has always distinguished itself from its Paris and Milan counterparts by nurturing young talent and focusing on the Next Big Things--and now, with the introduction of the CFDA Fashion Incubator, it has, according to jewelry designer Waris Ahluwalia, "put its money where its mouth is."

Designer, Bibhu Mohapatra

Back in October, Mayor Bloomberg and the CFDA announced that the new incubator program would give below-market-price studio space to emerging designers in the garment district (in addition to mentoring and "educational support") to help support the businesses of new talent in what the city deems and important industry. Just one month ago, the young designers (Alice Ritter; Waris Ahluwalia from House of Waris; Prabal Gurung; Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School; Bibhu Mohapatra; Grant Krajecki of Grey Ant; Rachel Dooley of Gemma Redux; Joel Diaz from Jolibe; Sang A Im-Propp of Sang A; Justin Giunta from Subversive Jewelry; Yuvi Alpert and Danna Kobo from Ruby Kobo, and Tom Scott.) moved in to their new spaces, and yesterday they invited reporters, bloggers, and editors to an open house to come check out the scene. The spaces are sparkling new, with exposed brick in each studio, polished concrete floors, and that shiny model-home smell that makes anything seem possible.

Alice Ritter recently made the move from her Brooklyn home studio to her shiny new midtown digs, and she said she's already feeling a major influence of being surrounded by so much talent in the heart of the city's fashion center. "The best part, by far," Alice told me, "is being here with my fellow incubator designers. It's actually intimidating. It makes me want to wake up in the morning and work harder. You know, it's not philanthropy here. They are supporting us in hopes that we will contribute back to the fashion community."

For Waris Ahluwalia, being part of the incubator program means he finally has a proper studio space in New York for his jewelry line, House of Waris. "My studio is usually in Rome, in Jaipur, in Bangkok, wherever I'm creating," he told me. "So its great to finally have a solid base of operations here in New York. The CFDA and the city have really put its money where its mouth is--they're giving us the support, the resources, it is just a great opportunity."

Prabal Gurung has already had a year filled with exciting opportunities--his recent CFDA nomination anddressing Michelle Obama twice among them--but moving into the incubator space means he can finally stretch his wings and put down some roots at the same time. "I was in my East Village studio before, which is a quarter the size of this space, and it was a live/work space," Prabal says. "Now, I just feel much more in touch with the fashion world. It's very encouraging, and to be around here, it's good energy and i feel more nurtured by the industry. Everything in my line is made in New York, and in all honesty, I'm not trying to be righteous about it but it's also about giving back to the industry that has given so much to me. It's a give and take situation. I feel like it's also important for me to give back and pave the way for more young designers. I want to set an example for the next batch of designers. I'm not just responsible to myself and my dreams and my aspirations--the industry believes in me, and I want to give back. And that can only, truly happen in new york. Nowhere else."

Vogue Bibhu Mohapatra is part of the "New Guard" in June 2010 issue

Bibhu Mohapatra on His fall 2010 collection | Inside Fashion

Project Beauty | Inside Fashion

Charriol art Opening

One of my favorite things to do is to go to the art openings of friends.
There is nothing more satisfying than to see fresh new wonderful work on the walls and feel the excitement of the artist's friends all around.

Tonight was one such evening..
Note the beautiful painting behind Miss. Domingo and me.
More to come I hope......

Bergdorf Goodman Introduces Bibhu Mohapatra

Bibhu Mohapatra

Trunk Show 

eveningwear

4th Floor 

Bergdorf Goodman

April 19th & 20th

10:00 am to 5:00 pm

Lovely article by Eric Wilson in the New York Times

April 7, 2010

Garment District Hothouse

By ERIC WILSON

“I’M going to have fun walking down the hall yelling, ‘Bibhu! Bibhu!’ ” said Waris Ahluwalia, the designer of the jewelry collection House of Waris, on his first day in his new office at 209 West 38th Street in the heart of the garment district last Tuesday. Bibhu Mohapatra, an evening-wear designer, had moved into a space down the hall a week earlier, from where he could wave hello. “Bibhu!” This has the potential to get annoying.

Their new offices, along with those of 10 other designers, are part of an initiative to help emerging fashion businesses grow in New York City — but that also seems determined to test the adage about what proximity breeds. It is a called a “fashion business incubator,” offering below-market rents (starting at $1,500 a month) and mentoring to a group selected by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. And it looks much like a shopping mall, with glass-fronted showrooms on either side of a grand aisle, where designers can create or sell or promote their collections, and retailers can visit all of them conveniently.

But as an experiment, the most intriguing results may lie in how they relate to the neighborhood, which has been declining as a center of fashion manufacturing for decades. Much of the current debate between landlords and designers about saving the district relates to the perceived importance of being close to their suppliers.

“The amount of time we save, even if it’s running out for a zipper, is incredible,” said Mr. Mohapatra, who had wanted to move his showroom from the Upper West Side, but found rents in the range of $4,500 for similar spaces. Some of the other participating designers said that they, too, were drawn to the convenience.

Prabal Gurung, who works in a shoebox apartment downtown, used to show his clothes at the home of his better-to-do publicist, but she wanted her living room back, thank you. Joel Diaz and Christina LaPens, the couple behind Jolibe, shared a live-work space nearby, but two young children made that situation a nightmare.

Mr. Ahluwalia said he, too, used to work far, far away, “up in the mountains, upstate.” He was in a town house on East 81st Street.

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