"I wanted to do a collection that was opulent, definitely, but [in an] absolute, precise fashion," Bibhu Mohapatra said at his presentation. By precise, he meant wearable; in adding more coats — this time rendered in luscious raccoon and fox furs — and day dresses for fall, Mohapatra conjured a sleek tableau of sophisticated yet unfussy clothes. Sparked by the films “The Conformist” (“Il Conformista”) and “Metropolis,” the lineup was split between geometric-tinged eveningwear, like a terrific plunging green gown with gold piping at the waist, and more relaxed fare (several wool pencil skirts, for instance, looked efficient and graceful). Yet while Mohapatra’s coats, like a surprisingly understated fox-hooded canvas parka, marked new territory, his formal dresses remained the stars. In dusty rose and a clear, deep blue, expect to see his delicately pleated floor-skimmers on the social circuit come September.
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